Combine the powdered milk, flour, baking soda, and ground cardamon in a large mixing bowl. Heat the milk and butter, then add to the powder mix, kneading with your hands into a soft but pliable dough. Form the dough into 25-30 balls, about 1" diameter, using the palms of your hands to roll them. Avoid cracks by adding more warm milk if necessary. If you like, insert a piece of rock candy into the centre of each ball.

Heat the ghee in a large pan until it is good and hot, then turn the flame right down. If the ghee is too hot, then the gulabs will burn black on the outside but stay hard and uncooked inside. If it is only warm, the gulabs will just sit on the bottom of the pan getting greasy. Put the balls into the ghee via a holy spoon to avoid splashing. They will lie on the bottom of the pan at first. Keep them moving to avoid burnt spots. As they rise to the surface and float, spin them round with the spoon to let them cook evenly. Cook for about 25 minutes, or until they are nicely browned. During this time, you can raise the heat slightly to help them swell.

While they are cooking, make the syrup by boiling the water and sugar for a few minutes. Add the rose water and remove from the heat.

Test to see that the balls are properly cooked by taking one out and pressing with your fingers. It should 'bounce back' if ready. Remove the balls from the ghee, and leave to drip in a colander for a while, then transfer to the warm syrup, where they will become soft, spongy, succulent and sweet... Soak for at least 24 hours, then offer and serve slightly warm.